Sunday, September 03, 2006

Rishikesh/Haridwar, India


Music School Rishikesh, India


When I arrived in Rishikesh, I was surprised to learn that not only would I be adjacent to the Ganges River .. but nestled between that and the Himalayas.

I think I'm growing tired of the excessive use of superlative that you've probably noticed - its hard to describe the things I've seen without noting that it's all so incredible, and so amazing. Rishikesh relaxing and peaceful - I practiced yoga with a yogi alongside the river - meditated in a makeshift hut in the forest - and sitar lessons!!!!!!!!!!! You'll notice that my knee is propped up in this picture - I'm not sitting properly, as both my legs are supposed to be parallel to the floor. This is a very difficult yoga position known as double pidgeon (i think.. or king pidgeon) - it requires very open hips, which I don't have.

Also - just to give everyone peace of mind: I had the worst experience travelling back to Delhi from Rishikesh. I decided to have my hand painted with henna - thinking that I had enough time to make it to the train station in town. When I boarded the autorickshaw, I noticed that my train was to leave in 20 minutes - not the Hour that I thought I'd given myself. After missing my train, I was given a 50% discount on my cancelled ticket -- I then found the nearest bus depot and searched for a bus to Delhi.

In so many words: Someone got into a fight with the driver. I slept with my backpack and other important personal effects under my shirt. I was the only woman on the bus. I was dropped off in the MIDDLE OF OLD DELHI AT 2:30AM. It was raining. Men were staring. I had no idea where I was, but I jumped off the bus (by the way: buses don't stop here, they slow down) and started walking as fast as possible.

My two greatest situational fears are 1. stray/loose animals and 2. walking alone at night. I couldn't afford the rabies shot, so I've tried to stay clear of all animals - it doesn't help that there are stray dogs everywhere I look and cows grazing in trash heaps. Getting dropped off at 2AM ANYWHERE (just my luck that it's India) also does a serious number on me. Oh - and then - once I found my hotel, I found that it was locked for the night. I went next door and was told "Sorry, no beds!"

Well, let me just sleep in your lobby

"No madame, no beds - you need to go somewhere else"

Anyway I found a bed - I spent the rest of the night (early morning) watching Hindi cinema from the 60s. It was great!

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